Monday, August 8, 2011

Hiroshima - A reminder of the horrors of war.

Hiroshima is a beautiful city, the best laid out I have seen in Japan. With two thirds of buildings destroyed when the atomic bomb exploded, and most of those completely levelled, the city was rebuilt to a town plan, unlike other cities that just evolved. The city of Hiroshima is built around their experience of being the first victims of nuclear warfare, and the people are dedicated to telling their story to the world, with the hope of preventing history from being repeated.The area near where the bomb exploded has been converted to a beautiful Peace Park dotted with reminders of what this city endured.

The most famous landmark is the A-Bomb Dome, the remains of a building that survived the blast. (Interestingly, the building was designed by a Czech Architect.) It was close enough to the hypocentre to not experience much in the way of shockwaves, and although damaged by the intense heat, enough of the building remained standing that it maintained its characteristic shape.

Peace Bell
There are a number of statues and monuments to the fallen, all bedecked in strings of paper cranes. A particularly poignant one is the Children's Peace Monument, built after the death of Sadako Sasaki, who I remember hearing about as a small child. It commemorates the unknown number of children who from the a-bomb, either immediately, or from radiation-induced sickness.

Near this monument was set up what looked like a temporary display, composed mostly of anecdotes and news clippings from Japanese people during the war, both civilians and soldiers. It was hard to read. Conscripts spoke of forced marches, with those unable to keep up being handed a grenade. Teenagers of the time recalled the harsh conditions working for the war effort. Many articles reflected on the insanity of the Japanese position, sending men into battle with bamboo weapons rather than admit defeat. American newspaper clippings were on display, explaining that since every Japanese household was contributing to the war effort, and Japanese homes were mini-factories, then indiscriminate fire-bombing of cities was justified, because they weren't bombing homes, but infrastructure. People recounted their helplessness after the atomic bomb was dropped, of hearing people cry out for help, but being unable to do anything, because of the extent of their own injuries. They also remembered the occupation by the Americans, and how censorship, already tough during the war, grew even tighter afterwards. The display condemned both the Japanese and US military. They were not presenting the Japanese as innocent victims of the Americans, rather, showing how the Japanese people were treated as inconsequential pawns by both governments, and putting a human face on the suffering caused by the policies of both governments.

Centopath bearing the names of known victims. Behind that is the Peace Flame, and behind that, the A-Bomb Dome
At the other end of the park, a Peace Flame burns. It will continue to burn until the last nuclear weapon is destroyed. I fear that it will never be put out. There is also a burial mound containing the ashes of some 70,000 victims who were never identified.

The most confronting, however, was the Peace Museum. A post about this is coming soon.

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